Dario Vitale’s Bold Debut Revives Gianni Versace’s Vision

The new creative director of Versace, Dario Vitale, made a striking debut on March 15, 2024, showcasing a collection that pays homage to the provocative spirit of the late Gianni Versace. Under Vitale’s direction, the Italian fashion house maintains its reputation for bold and daring designs, highlighting sensuality as a central theme.

Vitale’s collection featured tight denim worn unbelted, daring dresses held by a single button, and intricate backless bras adorned with jewels. The designer, who previously served as the design director for womenswear at Miu Miu, is notably the first creative director outside the Versace family lineage. His debut comes after the Prada Group acquired Versace in April 2023, prompting Donatella Versace to transition into a chief brand ambassador role, although she was absent from the runway show.

In drawing inspiration for his inaugural collection, Vitale looked to the legacy of Gianni Versace rather than Donatella’s contemporary interpretations. He recalled, “I remember my mum wearing Versace in the 1980s and 1990s – she was one of his best clients.” The collection reflected a nostalgic yet modern aesthetic with high-waisted denim, muscle T-shirts, and harlequin sequined dresses that captivated an audience including celebrities like Bianca Jagger and Jon Hamm. Hamm expressed his admiration for Vitale’s nod to Gianni, stating, “It’s very cool to see Dario getting back to what Gianni had done.”

Vitale gained unique access to Gianni Versace’s personal archive, which informed his vision. He focused on the artist’s letters, collected artwork, and other personal effects rather than solely clothing. “When I went to the Gianni archive, I wanted to find the spirit of Versace. I got to know him more by his belongings than his actual clothes,” Vitale explained.

To further enhance the experience, the collection was staged in various rooms at the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, featuring micro sets of everyday spaces such as writing desks and unmade beds. This setting was inspired by Pier Paolo Pasolini’s 1969 film Teorema, which explores themes of disruption and desire. Vitale aims to infuse a sense of beautiful chaos into his tenure at Versace, saying, “I wanted to see those gods and goddesses having affairs with mortals.”

In a related fashion event, British designer Louise Trotter also made her debut as creative director at Bottega Veneta on March 16, 2024. Trotter’s collection paid tribute to the brand’s origins, focusing on its journey since its founding in 1966. She emphasized the liberation of women during that era alongside a celebration of the brand’s signature woven intrecciato leather technique.

The runway showcased oversized tailoring with glossy leather lapels, nappa leather trench coats, and romantic dresses. Trotter, previously the creative director for Joseph and Lacoste, expressed her excitement at accessing the extensive resources of a superbrand like Bottega Veneta. “I’m in the candy box,” she remarked, highlighting the remarkable craftsmanship and innovative spirit within the house.

Both designers have set a dynamic tone for their respective brands, reinterpreting heritage while pushing boundaries. As they navigate their new roles, the fashion world eagerly anticipates how Vitale and Trotter will shape the future of these legendary labels.