Edward Enninful Sounds Alarm on Fashion’s Anti-Diversity Trend

Edward Enninful, the former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, has raised significant concerns about the fashion industry’s regression in diversity standards. During an appearance on BBC Radio 4’s program *Radical with Amol Rajan* on September 16, 2023, he noted a troubling trend: the rise of “super-thin” and predominantly European beauty ideals. Enninful stated, “anti-woke” and anti-diversity sentiments are gaining traction, suggesting a return to a norm that favors a singular representation.

Enninful’s remarks came amid London Fashion Week, a time when the industry typically showcases its most innovative and diverse talents. He expressed concern that the industry appears to be shifting back to a time when “one type is the norm,” emphasizing that this could undermine the progress made in recent years. His comments reflect a broader conversation about representation in fashion, a topic he has long championed.

In 2023, Enninful departed from British Vogue, where he made history as the first Black editor-in-chief. Following his departure, he launched a new media platform called EE72, named after his birth year. The platform aims to promote inclusivity and feature diverse voices. The inaugural print edition spotlights women over 50, featuring Julia Roberts on the cover, underscoring his commitment to broader representation.

Enninful described the current moment in fashion as “in flux,” acknowledging that there remains “a lot of work to be done.” He shared insights into his personal journey, having arrived in London from Ghana as an asylum seeker. His ascent in the fashion world began at a young age when he became the fashion director of i-D magazine at just 18 years old.

When discussing the current political climate, Enninful noted the stigmatization of the term “woke,” stating, “Woke is a dirty word. We see what’s happening in the world politically.” He elaborated that any deviation from what is deemed “normal” is often met with resistance, highlighting the challenges faced by those advocating for diversity.

Enninful also addressed speculation surrounding his relationship with Dame Anna Wintour, who is stepping down as the editor-in-chief of American Vogue after a remarkable 37-year tenure. He dismissed rumors of a falling out, clarifying that his decision to leave was made with Wintour’s support. “Anna and I, we text each other all the time. You’re going to see us together,” he assured listeners.

In a discussion about a recent advertising campaign by American Eagle featuring actress Sydney Sweeney, Enninful commented on the backlash regarding its tagline, “Sydney Sweeney has great jeans.” Some critics argued the phrasing implied a racially exclusive beauty standard. Enninful acknowledged that while some interpretations may have been exaggerated, the choice of a blonde woman in the campaign could trigger discussions about representation in fashion.

The response to the campaign underscores the ongoing divisions within society regarding beauty standards. Enninful concluded that the varied reactions reflect a population that is “quite divided,” further emphasizing the importance of continued dialogue around diversity in the fashion industry.

As Enninful embarks on this new venture with EE72, his vision aims not only to reflect the current state of fashion but also to pave the way for a more inclusive future, highlighting the beauty found in diversity.